I was at my friendly neighborhood booze shop recently and happened to see a bottle of Leopold Brothers American Small Batch Whiskey. I'm actually familiar with the brand. Leopold Brothers, currently located in Denver, Colorado, originally operated a brewery and distillery in Ann Arbor, Michigan where East Coast and myself went to law school. I really loved their Ann Arbor location. Leopold Brothers was a place where you could drink, play board games (checking them out from the bartender), or have a pizza and catch the game. Now, when they were in Ann Arbor they produced beer, gin, pisco, and vodka, but not whiskey. So, for the sake of nostalgia I picked up a bottle.
Leopold Brothers claim that they produce their American Small Batch Whiskey in the pre-prohibition style, which is to say that they barrel at a lower proof (98 instead of the modern 125), ferment naturally without refrigeration, and distil the corn and rye over a whole day instead of flash-boiling. Interestingly they claim that by barreling at a lower proof this allows "more of the whiskey to come into contact with the barrel, allowing the mild brown sugar and
molasses notes that come from the charred barrels to shine through." I'm not sure how that's true, unless the lower alcohol content means that the "angel's share" is smaller. Anyway, the real question is how does this pre-prohibition whiskey stack up?
For the record, I'm drinking this neat. First, the whiskey is very clear and light in color. Leopold Brothers doesn't state on the bottle or their website how long they're aging the whiskey in the barrel but I wouldn't think more than a year and certainly not more than two. It's similar in color and clarity to hard cider or a desert white wine. It has a mellow smell, mostly yeast and alcohol. The taste is similarly mild and distinctly unlike most bourbon. The whiskey is sweet, tasting slightly of vanilla and corn syrup. It's not cloying, but it is mellow and pretty one-dimensional.
So my verdict? I wouldn't buy this again or order it at a bar, but it wasn't bad. I'm actually intrigued to try some of Leopold Brother's other whiskeys. They make a "New York Apple Whiskey" that I might have to seek out given how much I love hard cider and Calvados.
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